Ikoyi is now located on the Strand, occupying the north-west corner of a newly renovated 1970s building. The space is minimalist and calm, with most tables overlooking the open kitchen.
My last visit was in 2018 at the original St James’s Market site. Ikoyi moved to this new location in late 2022, and the cooking is now on a completely different level. Back then, I found the food enjoyable with a distinctive flavour profile, but each dish felt overly minimalistic often lacking enough components to elevate the cuisine’s sophistication. That has changed and in a significant way!
From the lunch menu we had, the uniqueness of Ikoyi’s cuisine truly shines. Each dish is complex, composed of several elements, with every component offering a distinct taste journey of its own. The scallop dish, served with its roe and marinated in Marsala wine, came with a razor clam emulsion and a foamy courgette soup, and that’s not all, finished with a beurre blanc, hazelnut cream, and a touch of pistachio oil. It may sound overcomplicated, but the elements come together harmoniously, creating a dish that stands apart from most others in the city. There is also a clear and consistent theme running through the menu: bold flavours often with a lingering nutty-spicy-sweet aftertaste. This is evident throughout, from the Gola pepper broth to the smoked jollof rice, and even in the almond cake dessert was finished with a red long pepper mousse. It is refreshing, especially at a time when many tasting menus feel like collections of unrelated ideas.
Ingredient quality is top-notch, as expected at this price point: jumbo Orkney scallops, notably fresh Scottish langoustine, and native breed cattle with deep, intense beef flavour. Portions are also generous enough that I left feeling I had enjoyed a proper, satisfying meal.
There are still a few areas that could benefit from refinement. The lobster with wild garlic leaned heavily towards sauce with little discernible lobster meat. The combination of octopus and sweetbread was brave and conceptually appealing, and the rich sauce was excellent, but both items were overcooked resulting in a texture that was more chewy than bouncy. The turbot was aged, which explained its depth of flavour, but for my taste it was too dry compromising the fish’s delicate texture.
Some post-meal reading revealed that Ikoyi’s philosophy now centres firmly on a spice-driven cuisine. Years have been spent sourcing an expansive library of spices from around the world, forming the backbone of its bold, expressive dishes. This philosophy aligns perfectly with my experience of the meal and explains the restaurant’s increasingly confident, distinctive, and ambitious style.